Відео

@@Gen_0123 it's still like it after all these years.

@JesHill do you have a tutorial video for that on your channel feels free to link me

@Player_s04 I don't, but there's a few on YT.

Thank you, very much appreciated.

It's become a theme in my builds to use reclaimed woods, I've been lucky to source nice hardwoods that were felled many years ago recently from an estate sale, the guy was a keen carpenter, enough wood to see me out in builds. I'll certainly never buy new supply hardwoods that are not sustainable whatever happens. This particular bass is very much still in use and features on a few of my videos, it's a happy accident for sure, but a keeper.

Thank you, much appreciated.

I certainly found my limit 😊

Thanks 😊

Cheers man, much appreciated.

Thank you ❤️

Thank you, much appreciated.

Thanks Laurie, much appreciated as I know you know what goes into these 🙂

@@JesHill absolutely. Your video looks so professional!

That'll be my son Sam, glad you mentioned it, now credited in the description 😎

@@JesHill Nice move, Dad lol

Thanks man.

Thank you, much appreciated 😊

Many thanks for that. I'd love to hear some music you use the bass for when you're ready.

I've little knowledge of electrics, this was a 'sports' 10cc engine (.60 ci) so a 300 - 500 kv motor. 'crispyspa' would be worth checking out on YT as he's a lot of experience with an electric version.

Indeed he did.

Indeed it is 😊

Purchased, they are handed APC.'s. mounted backwards. It turns out they should have both been the same hand to be original. They are a little too heavy really, I'm working on lightweight ones from 3D printing as they get going better in lighter winds

Yes, is was made from scratch. I made up some 2D drawings by digitising some line drawings I found online, then scaled to suit. It was digitised in Corel draw, ultimately I'm planning to use the 2D to be the source for CNC cutting, I've not got a big enough machine yet. I could sort a scalable PDF file if it's of use to you, or the original .cdr if you can read it.

A pdf file would be great …how could you send it?

I’m a tool room machinist in Canada and have access to larger hass cnc mills. Do you have any G code programs?

I use Easel Pro at the moment to generate g-code for this sort of thing. Most of what I do with a CNC router at home is profile work and I find it simple for that purpose. I'm going to try some .dxf exports from Corel of this drawing that Easel can work with, and see if I can work it out.

Thanks for that. I'll point Michael to your comment, but from my side a lot has happened since this video and I'd like to point out a few things to add to the consideration. The fact that the surface changes the tone of the instrument is a given, obvious even, and that does mean a significant shift from existing tone to the changed boards output. One element is quite off-putting, the acoustic sound these make, there's snippets of it in this vid where Mike was talking whilst playing so were not gated out on the vox mic, but I make a point of suggesting that people listen to these first plugged in and isolated if not at stage volumes. The clack that comes off the neck, which doesn't come through the pickups, is quietly alarming, similar to aluminium fingerboards, but with the wooden clack behind it rather than a piano fizz. I've had a few players say to me that the necks get better over time, but I believe it's the player getting used to the surface as having checked over necks that are years old now they really aren't any different with no channels that strings have dug into effecting tone etc. And one example where I've done the same instrument twice because I wanted to change the position markers and it was no different from being two years old to being refreshed. A lot of very fine disciplines need enhancing one this surface as it shows up less than ideal string damping, fingering pressures, harmonics etc by shouting about them somewhat. So yes, the tonal makeup changes, some of that can be dialled in/out, some of it is simply not what you can get from this surface, so on the tone front it's more of an extension of options. From a personal perspective I've made a point of not trying to achieve a sound of somebody else, I'm not capable, or interested tbh, and whilst I might be inspired by the good guys that was never one of the initial drivers for using cyano, it was always about wear. I started playing fretless in the early eighties and through wanting to use round wounds I was very disappointed with wear rates. Rosewood was pretty much useless, it would last a few weeks, best quality dense Ebony maybe a year or so before needing attention, flatwound strung equivalents almost no problem at all. As my day job has me working with Composites Engineers I explored the various resins and whilst some are really good they all wore at rates that didn't give much advantage and significantly really sat on the surface so when its breached, game over. Cyano, the right type, penetrates and hardens the wood itself to a greater depth, it's a very different result with a very, very, thin top coating that should be measured in microns. The epoxies also sound out somewhere between the cyano and bare wood, so again they do offer that tonal property which is different. My first cyano'd bass is now four years old an there's no sight of it needing to be recoated yet. Finally, and this is the tricky bit, at the simplest level the fingerboard has to be very precise to give any chance of evenness along its length, at the highest level forming into the profile allowances for relief continuity where the truss rod can not influence it, i.e. at the top of the neck, and even multi-compound radii are now shaped in, so that's a regular compound radius say from 7 1/4 to 16 but actually a parabola at the top where it might be 12 one side and 16 the other. To be able to do that uses tooling that I've not seen anybody use on any form of shaping ever. And I'm keeping that to myself, which is why this is the tricky bit 🙂. The thing is that the cyano with it shouting out so much mechanically shows up any flaw and can be very off-putting, where the comparatively dulled flatspot or whatever might be a slight difference on a bare wood neck, the cyano shows them up with greater contrast between sounding out and the dull spot. As such I often wonder just what quality of work went before some of the, very few, negative responses to this process.

I couldn't possibly disagree 🙂

Thanks Alex.

Hi man! Thanks, good to see you here.

Thank you.

Thanks man. Very many hobby hours spread over a long period 😉, it was about a year in the making in bits and pieces.

Thank you, much appreciated.

Thank you, much appreciated as I know you know what goes into these.

@@JesHill absolutely! And especially with that many musicians lol! ❤️

Thanks man, your stuff was a joy to work with.

Thanks. Since this video I've found I liked the guitar so much I swapped out the body for something much better, I used it for backing on my First Guitar Build vid although it's now yellow 🙂, Something good from very little, no bad thing. At some point I'll purpose make one though, fretless guitar fascinates me and its worth pursuing.

Cheers for that. I'm no master but always trying to step up with each project.

Thanks.

Thank you, much appreciated.

Thank you. Methods vary according to the needs, but I'll give you something to take away and experiment with. I see a significant difference between a good build and one that's just that step up from that is the quality of surfaces and edges. To aid those I only use metal rubbing blocks to wrap abrasive around. I use dead flat gauge steel mostly, sometime brass, but always as flat as can be. This allows easier feel for working on high spots in small areas, is unforgiving in tolerance so surfaces are not just rounded down, and over any size surface can generate pretty much optically true flats, and curves are also easier to get right. Get hold of some small blocks of steel, repurpose something maybe, and try it on a few materials. Concave surfaces need curved blocks, that can come later. At some point it will click, and you'll never go back to rubber or wooden blocks again when shaping.

@@JesHill I can't find any plans to build any Airboats now days... Been looking for like 2 weeks for the plans to a hidro airboat build, that's how a ran across your builds... 15 years ago they was everywhere... Now everything ya click on says error, dead link, or page not found... So guess I'll just do another scratch Airplane build...

@@yotehunter3468 the SI3 in this video may be available from Facebook, search for "Selph Inflicted" RC Airboats on there.

@@JesHill yeah tried that, no answer, and he hasent posted anything sense 2020...

@@yotehunter3468 Jerry hill on FB, pm

Thank you. I'm pleased to report this boat is still in use and looks much the same.